Noah's Travels - Down the Mississippi River
The Plan |
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I've checked everything off the list. Its time to go. Forecast says low 50s for a high, mid 30s for a low, maybe some rain in the morning. Not to bad.
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Practice run on the frozen Milwaukee River |
Launch DayChicago, IL
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The Dream of paddling through downtown Chicago turns out to be a nightmare. Traffic to get to Chicago is congested, and trying to find a place to launch in Chicago is near impossible. Finally, I find a little Marina and was packing up the kayak and the someone comes and kicks me out of the spot. I wish I knew the name of the place so as to condemn it. Next to the Marina was public property, I launched from there and the trip is underway! I paddle down the Chicago River and connect to the Chicago Sanitation Canal and make my first camp in Summit, IL. |
Leaving Chicago |
Day 2Summit to Lockport, IL
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The Sanitation Canal makes for terrible Kayaking. It is narrow and heavily trafficked by Tug and Barges. Also, there are great big walls on both sides of the river that make it so that a little boat like me has no place to stop so I can get out! I arrived at the first Lock and Dam today and they ushered me right in. The guy threw a line to me and I grabbed hold of it. I hollered up that it was my first time "Lockin Through" and requested advice. He didnt hear me or didnt think that it was worth responding so I sat there holding onto the line for a couple minutes before I realized the water level had already dropped about a foot. Passing through locks I learned was really quite easy and relaxing! Just after the lock I made camp in Lockport, IL. |
A photo from inside a Lock |
Day 3Lockport to Channahon, IL
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Out of the Canal and onto the Des Plaines River! Today, after paddling through Joliet, and through another lock I spot some folks hanging out on a big steel circular dock. I paddle over to make conversation and ask if they will refill my water supply. They are some guys taking a break working in one of the factories and they turn out to be great folks. They fill up my water and bring back Snickers bars and Freezy Pops. I eat a Snickers on the spot and food has never tasted so good. I paddle for another few hours and then I ask another pleasure boat what bridge it is I am passing under. The 55th street bridge they tell me and then ask if I want a tow! Yes! They tow me a couple of miles and tell me of a nice restaraunt ahead. After another bit of paddling, I hear from the shore, "Hey Noah!". Its Lennie! One of the guys I met from the factory! Him and his wife Ede came out to a camp ground they knew I would be passing by. Lennie helps me pull out my boat and I set up camp in Channahon, IL at McKinley woods. |
Lennie and Ede |
Day 4Shannahon to Morris, IL
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Slept in this morning and decided to take an easy day. Its Monday, and I dont have to work so I celebrate with a lazy morning and chatting with some people in the park. One person gives me a map of the parks along the river that comes in nice and handy. I pass through another lock and its on to the Illinouis River! The Illinouis is a huge river and the scenery is even more beautiful than the Des Plaines. A wind has picked up today and I push the kayak over waves occasionally burying the entire bow in a big one. Its a great time! After I pass the town of Morris I make camp. |
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Day 5Morris to Starved Rock, IL
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It poured all night but my tent kept me dry and warm. The weather broke just long enough this morning for me to break camp and have breakfast. Once I got out paddling however, the rain came hard and thick. I came to a lock and I had to wait for a tug to lock through before me, and the tug was still an hour away from the lock! I sat there in the rain as the tug finally arrived behind me and was locked through. The lock master told me it was 13 miles to Starved Rock from that lock and I was determined to make it. I have heard Starved Rock is beautiful, and has a campground and horse back riding, maybe it even has a bar; that is where I want to camp. I paddle through pouring rain for hours until I finally reach another Lock! I have to wait about an hour to get into this lock and the rain is coming harder than ever. I end up tieing off in the lee of a giant steel dolphin and sitting miserable in the pouring rain. Inside the lock it turns out that I am at Starved Rock. I ask about the camping and learn that it doesnt exist anymore. I find an Island just outside the lock and make camp. There are no trespassing signs but I am too wet and cold to care. |
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Day 6Starved Rock to Spring Valley, IL
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My gear is soaked from the day before. I put on a dry pair of pants and shirt but my boots are soaked to the core. The weather radio is calling for another huge storm tomorrow so I decide I will find a great place to camp today and take tomorrow off. I paddle to the south of Spring Valley and find a place that is perfect. |
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Day 7Day off in Spring Valley, IL
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I sleep in and spend the day reading, and playing guitar. It rains outside but I hide out in my tent. It is a great day and I feel like an adventurer. |
A nice Camping Spot |
Day 8Spring Valley to Henry, IL
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Huge waves today! And I have to cross the width of the river against the wind. At one point the waves were so big that I went into a trough and couldnt see anything but giant walls of water. I struggle to make any ground against the waves and I finally reach Henry where there is a marina. I tell the marina folks that I am bound for New Orleans and they dont mind if I camp in there yard. I hang out at the marina bar all night and make friends with a Pipe fitter named Frank. |
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Day 9Henry to Chilicothe, IL
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I really want to make it to Peoria today so I can wait out a cold weekend there. There is snow in the weather forecast! But I paddle until I am too tired to paddle anymore and make camp just south of the suburban water front of Chilicloth. Finding a place to camp here is very difficult because the water has flooded so much that the shoreline is almost un reachable through a thick forest of trees growing clear out of water! |
Flooded Forest of Trees Growing out of Water! |
Day 10, 11, and 12Peoria, IL
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My camp in Chilicothe is about 3 miles from my checkpoint in Peoria. I have made arrangements online to sleep on a couch at Marys place. I reach the spot early in the morning and pull the boat out. Peoria is nice, and Mary is a great host. We eat great food and go to the zoo. I restock my supplies and its time to set out on the 15th. |
Mary! My host in Peoria |
Day 13Peoria to Pecan, IL
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An early morning in Peoria sets me paddling through Peoria Lake with the sunrise. I go through downtown Peoria and there is tug boat traffic going everywhich-way. Soon a huge wind picks up and paddling as hard as I can I am not making any progress. I arrive at the Pecan lock and the water is so high that they dont even have it operational. I find a little stretch of high ground at about two in the afternoon and call it a day. I set up a nice camp and sit down in the shade of tree to read. |
Enjoying My Camp in Pecan |
Day 14Pecan to Liverpool, IL
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I shove off early and its a sunny blue day. The wind has abated today and I am making great time. I hope that I can reach the town of Liverpool tonight. I know a song about Liverpool and the map shows that there is a camp ground there. After I pass through downtown Pecan I dont see anymore civilization all day. By evening I am worried about finding a campsite when the levi gives way to a few houses on the shore. "Hello" I call out and a greeting answers me! I find the source and it turns out I made it all the way to Liverpool! About 26 miles! Some folks let me use their shower and give me a sandwich We chat and enjoy a beautiful night. I camp out in a Liverpool backyard. |
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Day 15Liverpool to Fredrick, IL
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Rain is in the forecast and the sky is grey. I dress for the weather and about 5 minutes after I start paddling its starts to drizzle. The light rain quickly turns into a downpour. I paddle on and on the rain keeps coming. I get completely soaked through despite my foul weather gear. The entire way is berift of anything man made except for an occasional car completely rusted and abandoned half submerged in the sunken forest. The entire way is surounded by the sunken forest and finding a place to stop and rest or eat is difficult. I am soaked and it is raining as hard as ever when I finally find some high ground to camp on. The camp site is covered in stinging nettles growing out of deep mud. I try to set up my tent in the rain and make every mistake possible. The inside of my tent gets wet in the rain and and I finally manage to climb in and take off my wet gear. I lay down while the sun is just beginning to set and I listen to the croaking of frogs. How misserable the frogs sound, I think to myself, I am wet and misserable with the frogs. I go to sleep without dinner, listening to the rain fall. |
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Day 16Fredrick to the Old Lagrange Lock Site, IL
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I wake up and put on my wet gear. I have a double serving of oatmeal to quench my hunger and feel a little better. The sky is grey today but its not supposed to rain. I paddle through Beardstown, IL and imagine a town full of bearded people. At about five o'clock I see some people having a bon fire. My boots are soaked and I really want to join them and sit near the fire. I call over to the folks to see what town I am in. I inquire about any good camping in the area and they say I can stay there. The man I meet introduces himself as Nick and they are having a party as they tear down an old house on the river. We drink beer and tell stories and make fun of eachother and have a great time. I heat some rocks and dry out my boots. And they treat me to sandwiches and hot dogs. I retire early and as I lay down in my tent I can hear them singing "Noah row your boat ashore..." |
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Day 17Old Lagrange to Pearl, IL
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I leave Old Lagrange and the current is flying! I manage to paddle 30 miles with current helping me along. I am looking forward to spending a night in the wild tonight and I find a beautiful beach littered with clam shells reflecting the sun. I feel elated to be out in the woods, the sun is shining, and the air is thick with the sounds of birds, and insects and I swear I hear the laughter of a monkey! |
Sunset From My Private Beach |
Day 18Pearl to Nutwood, IL
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The sun is shining today and I launch from my little beach. It is so nice today that I put shorts on. I feel liberated with my legs exposed for the first time of the season. I must finally be getting south. I cover another 30 miles today. At this rate I will reach the Mississippi River tomorrow! This thought gets my heart racing. I find an Island to make my camp and name it Noahs Island. |
Sunny Weather |
Day 19Nutwood, IL
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The weather report this morning threatens severe weather. 60 miles per hour of wind, quarter size hail, crying children. I resolve to wait out the coming storm on my little island. I tie my tent to a tree so it doesnt blow away then make breakfast and coffee and take refuge in my tent. The wind blows and the rain comes and I stay safe and warm in my tent sipping coffee and reading Mark Twain. After a few hours the sun comes out and consider making a run for the Mississippi River, but I am happy on my Island and decide to spend the day. I explore and start a fire and bake a potato and have a nice lazy day in the sunshine. This is the perfect life! |
Camp On Noahs Island |
Day 20Nutwood, IL to Alton, MO
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Its another sunny day. Today I will reach the Mississippi River. I can barely contain myself! I leave my island behind. It wasnt just my island after all. Spiders also have a claim to it appearantly, as my boat and tent seem to be in a cocoon in the morning. I am out paddling in shorts again and the currentis racing. It must know that the great Mecca of US waterways is just ahead. I stop and fill my water bottles at a park that is at about the 2 mile mark away from the Mississippi River. Soon the current is going even faster, the river widens and I wonder if this is what the Mississippi River will be like. I see Grafton off to my left and then it strikes me - check the map - this is it! I turn around and see where the Illinouis River dumps into the Mississippi. I look accross the river and it appears to me to be about 3 mile wide. I cant think I just whoop and cheer. I look to my right, "Missouri" I shout. I look left, "Illinouis" I shout. I look straight ahead, "MISSISSIPPI RIVER!" A tug boat passess heading up stream but its so far away it doesnt worry me at all. Just then a huge fish, 3 feet long probably, jumps out of the water and slams into the side of my boat. It is reflected off my boat straight up and it soars over the toes of my boots! I have been warned of the Asian Karp the entire way down but this is the first attempt one has made at my life. If it had hit me, it would have knocked me overboard and maybe unconscous! What can I do? I paddle on. Soon I reach the Alton Lock and it takes me about 2 hours to get the lock masters attention. After I clear the lock, I head over to the Missouri side and happily make camp for the first time in a new state. |
Mississippi River! |
Day 21Alton to Kimmswick, MO
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Its nice and warm in Missouri. 50 percent chance of rain today. I decide to wear my swimming suit and sandals. Today I will arrive in St. Louis and take a few days off. I am going to be meeting up with Tonya tonight to go and explore the city. I head out into the great current of the Mississippi River. I round a bend and the river widens further. Here it is full of Islands and I am not sure which way to go. Do I hug this shoreline? Is this really the shoreline? maybe this is a tributary that flows in? I see a sign ahead but I cant quite read what it says. I decide to follow a course that will bring me within a distance of reading the sign. "Canal: All boats Enter Here" it reads. Its the Chain of Rocks Canal! I have heard of its devilry. Boats that dont go through the canal are scraped and shredded and destroyed in the dreaded chain of underwater rocks. I paddle like hell for the canal entrance but the wind and current wont let me reach it. Finally my energy is gone, and I come about. I will brave the chain of rocks. I paddle onward and I dont see a single rock or obstruction. Perhaps the flooding is so high that all the rocks are submerged. Soon there is a city skyline on the horizon; I can see the Arch from here! Then the rain comes. The Wind comes. The waves come. The cold comes. I paddle into the water front of downtown St. Louis amidst hellish weather and rain. A mock paddle boat, the Tom Sawyer, is full of tourists and it comes right up next to me. I wave and strike a good sailor explorer pose. Everybody waves and cheers and I feel like a celebrity. Soon the rain comes with renewed energy and I get completely soaked. I start to shiver terribly and am forced to find a place to change into warm clothes and make some oatmeal to warm myself. I paddle south for another few hours and arrive atlast at Hoppie's Marina. I meet Mr. Hoppie and set up my tent. One of Tonya's Friends Christine, lives near by, and she spots me while walking her dog. She lets me use her shower and washing machine, then we chat, drink wine, and I play guitar while she plays the accordian. I go sleep in St. Louis. |
St. Louis In The Distance |
Day 22 - 25St. Louis
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I meet Tonya the next morning and we go to the zoo, the art museum, and the science museum all for free!
Then we go to Blue Berry Hill for drinks (and to get my thrill) and then go out for Margaritas and Mexican Food. I have restocked my supplies,
and will shove off tomorrow morning. The weather forecast is for mid 40s tomorrow and climbing to 70's by the middle of the week.
I hope for more warm weather. My next stop is Memphis, TN. 400 miles from here to there. I have only come about 375 this entire trip so far.
Hopefully the current will pull me at a good enough pace to make the trip in about 10 days. |
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Day 26Kimswick - Mile 115
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It is a cold morning and some frost has formed on my tent. I put on sweatpants and start to break my camp. I had been living out of it for a few days so packing everything up is a long process. Finally, I head out and the day warms up. There are no land marks on this part of the river. No Bridges. No Towns. No People. I had become accustomed to being amongst other people and eating good food in St. Louis and I feel lonely today. The uncertainty from having no idea where I am adds to my mood. But, I find a decent place to make camp and I drink some wine with my ramen dinner. Now I am classy! |
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Day 27Mile 115 - Mile 77
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Its another cold morning so I make some coffee and oatmeal to warm myself up. I am feeling much better today. The sun is bright and it turns out to be a hot one. I hope all the cold weather is behind me. The wind is blowing against me and I feel like I am making terrible time. The Missouri shore is all covered in railroad today and I am afraid I wont find a place to camp. Luckily I spot an island and cross some heavy wind blown seas to reach it. By the time I get to the island I am soaking wet, but my mood is cheerful. I have my wine and ramen noodles and go to bed. The wine is really a great thing to have - I will make sure to keep some stocked. |
Railroad on the MO shore |
Day 28Mile 77 - Cape Garedeau, MO
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The mornings are getting warmer and I hope to wear shorts today. I head out and a huge wind is blowing! When I am paddling directly into it I can barely make forward progress. I struggle on all day. Finally, I come around a bend and spot a bridge! its Cape Garedeau! The town front is only about 3 miles away but it is directly into the wind. I paddle for about 2 hours before I reach it and then there is no marina or any descreet shore to hide my boat for a trip into town so I continue past the town without stopping. I am dissapointed to pass without getting a real meal. Around the next bend I find a nice little beach to camp on. Camping on a beach is great! I eat my dinner barefoot in the sand and sleeping couldn't be more comfortable. |
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Day 29Cape Garedeau - Mile 37
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It was supposed to rain all night, but my beach is still dry.
NOAA warns me about severe weather approaching; the sky is grey but it doesnt look all that severe to me.
I shove off and a light rain starts to fall on me. Thats OK - I can handle a little rain.
I pass under a beautiful old railroad bridge with giant concrete archways.
Shortly after, I look behind me to check for any boat traffic but the bridge is gone. The river is gone. The world is gone! In its stead is darkness.
A huge black cloud is heading right towards me devouring anything it touches. I head for shore as quickly as I can, pull the boat out, set up a tent,
tie the boat off to a tree, tie the tent off to a tree, and duck inside just as the rain begins to fall. The rain falls hard. Lightning strikes rapidly,
and the thunder is a constant deafening roar. I try to estimate how far the lightening is away from me by the delay between light and thunder but
I am poor at counting milliseconds and I give up after calculating one flash at about 3 and 3/8 of an inch away from my face.
I continually crank my weather radio and a computerized voice calmy reports a Tornado has been sighted at such and such a location.
Soon another Tornado is sighted. And soon another. Cape Garedeau is in a Tornado Warning all day but none are sighted there.
Eventually the rain eases a little and I eat and go to bed.
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Day 30Mile 37 - Mile 938
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I wake up early and see the sun rising over the distant shore.
It is a great relief to know that the sun is still out there. I set out hoping to reach the Ohio River today at Mile 0.
The wind is at my back and I am flying. A couple hours of paddling and I reach in to my dry storage where I keep my snacks.
My dry storage is not dry. I look into the compartment and I have taken on about five inches of water!
I have a leak. I eat my granola bar in dispair. Well, I have been out for a couple hours already today,
I decide to keep an eye on my bilge levels and if it gets much higher I can go ashore and bail out the water.
I have gone way to far to let something like a little leak stop me! I check on the water level frequently but it stays constant.
At lunch I examine closer and angle of the bilge water's surface doesn't look right. I pull out the basket that I keep my snacks in and its full of water - my hull was bone dry.
I didnt know the basket was water tight. I did not have a leak after all. I had less than a quart of water sitting in my snack basket.
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Day 31Mile 938 - Tippleton, TN
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It is a freezing cold morning and I have a headache from all the wine I drank last night. I dont want to get out of bed so I go back to sleep. I wake up a little later and head out. Its a bright sunny day and it gets a nice comfortable warmth to it. I dont see a single person all day and wonder where I am. Finally, as the sun sets I spot a fisherman out on his boat. I greet him and ask what town I am in. He gives me a very strange look, likely decides I am crazy, then says, "Hell, you in goddamn Tippleton". "Tippleton! thats in Tennesse!?" I enquire enthusiastically. "Well, yeah!" the fisherman replies confused and slightly agrivated, he starts up his engine heads off as fast as he can. |
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Day 32Tippleton, TN - Hayti, MO
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The sunrise wakes me up. There is no better way to wake. It is warm and colorful. After breakfast I take inventory of my provisions. I am in bad shape. Only a days worth of granola bars equals emergency. I am out of peanut butter - crisis. I spray on the last of my bug repellent - impending doom. Only three cans of sardines left. Will I make it to Memphis on three lunches? I have 5 dinners remaining so I could cook one as a lunch extending my provisions to 4 days worth. I need to refill my water too. I check the map and find that Caruthersville is the next town that may have a water front. Caruthersville is on the Missouri shore though, so I will need to cross the river and head back to the state that has so far yeilded only cloudy rainy skies. I paddle all day. The next bend will certainly be Caruthersville. It isn't. Nor is the next. Finally the sun is setting, and I make camp in a wildlife refuge. Signs are posted stating that special regulations apply. I assume one of the regulations is that I shouldnt camp there but I havent eaten my peanut butter today and I am tired. I make my camp and finish the last of my wine. I will definately need to reach a town now. |
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Day 33Hayti, MO - Double Bridges, TN
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The lack of bugspray yesterday yeilded a terrible night of sleeping. I am covered in bites that I have scratched till they blead. My fingernails have been died a shade of red and my legs show trails of dried blood. I am sure a spectacular site. I can see some buildings on the shore up river, maybe thats Caruthersville at last. Two hours of paddling without granola bars and I reach Caruthersville at last. I tie my boat up to some trees on a descreet part of shore near a casino boat, then head into town. Accross the street from the casino is an inn and I decide to try to fill my water there. I go in and there is no one at the desk so I look around. The continental breakfast is sitting out - could you resist? I head over and start to fill my water at the sink as I tear through about four honey buns, a few bananas, pour a cup of cappicino, and down a box of dry cheerios. I walk away with four gallons full of water, my big hat and life jacket on, and I pass someone dressed in a polo displaying the name of the inn. Goodmorning! I call cheerfully. She greets me back with no attention to my strange attire. After I carry all the water back to the boat, I set out to buy groceries. I walk about 15 blocks and people stop dead in there tracks and drive their cars off the road as they stare at the dirty, bloody, bearded guy walking down the street. Eventually, I find a drug store and pick out some wine that was made in Missouri, and go to hunt for peanut butter and granola. They have neither, so I buy a few days worth of candy to hold me over. By now I am frantic to get back to my boat. I cant stand to be away from her for so long so I head back as fast as I can. She is safe. I shove off and realize I forgot bugspray. I am sick of Caruthersville so I decide to tough it out. I am feeling sort of sick from all the junk I ate at the hotel but it was worth it. At 5:30 I call it an early day and make camp on an island. It is nice sandy beach and the bugs arent to bad. I make Uncle Ben's Cajun Rice and drink my new wine. The rice is delicious and the wine is great! I feel like a king sitting barefoot on a beach watching the sunset drinking wine. This is how life is supposed to be. |
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Day 34Double Bridges, TN - Medford, TN
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I get an early start today. I told my mom I would be in Memphis tomorrow and she is going to drive down to meet me. I curse myself for the short day yesterday. How far is it to Memphis? Will I make it tomorrow? I paddle with everything I've got and am making good time. Its a cloudy day and there is a thick fog. I reach a straight away on the river and it appears just to dissapear into the fog. I paddle straight ahead for hours. The fog lifts and I still cant see any bends ahead, the river just vanishes straight over the horizon. I take lunch and there is still no end to the straight away. I am bearing due south and I image this straight goes all the way to Memphis and Vicksburg and Baton Rouge and New Orleans and finally the Gulf of Mexico. Eventually however, the river bends and I am releived. Whats around the bend I wonder. Just more river and tree clad shores. Where the hell am I? How far is Memphis? I spot someone riding an ATV down the wooded shoreline and I wave and call to him. Maybe he sensed my desparation because he drives over to the river edge to talk to me. I tell him about the trip and inquire to the town we are in. He points accross the river; Osceola. I check the map and am filled with releif. I can make it. As the sun sets some weather moves in on me but the rain stops and I find a perfect beach to make camp. There isnt a tree in on the beach. Not a single mosquito. No animal tracks. This beach is all mine. I have some ramen and drink my wine and feel good. Some more weather is moving in so I retire to the tent. Memphis Tomorrow! |
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Day 35Medford - Memphis, TN
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My campsite was not perfect. The weather moved in at midnight and didnt stop.
The wind blew like hell. The rain fell thick. I had no woods to give me cover and my tent was completely exposed.
The tent stakes were driven into sand and didnt stand a chance.
I woke up to see the stake holding down one side of the vestibule of my rain fly pulled loose.
I jumped out of bed to fix the situation and ran outside in my underwear.
By the time I was out there however, the other side of the vestibule had pulled free as well.
I tied them off to the fore and aft lines on my kayak and then watched as the two front corners of the tent
were ripped from the ground. Then the poor tent collapsed on itself and I stood in terror as the rain poured
down onto my now exposed gear. I managed to stand it back up and I tied a line from the where the poles crossed
straight ahead to my boat. It seemed to be standing okay so I climbed back into my tent.
My gear was wet. While I was outside I got soaked through and the wind had coated me with a thick skin of sand.
I may as well have been tarred and feathered except tar is hot and feathers are soft.
Instead I was cold, and the sand scraped every inch of me. I climbed into my wet sleeping bag
and it was like trying to sleep in the snow wrapped in a blanket of sand paper.
I lay there miserable as the rain and wind battered my tent. Then the poles snapped and the tent came down on top of me.
There was nothing I could do. I lay there as a broken pole was whipping around in the wind slapping me in the chest.
I got out my flask and waited out the night. At about five I fell into a restless drunken sleep.
At about eight I awoke and the rain had stopped. I cleaned up my camp as best I could. My stakes were lost.
My sleeping bag soaked and full of sand. My tent rendered useless.
Memphis today, I promised myself. I would get a hotel tonight, I promised myself.
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Day 36, 37, 38, and 39Memphis, TN
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My mom and I go out for breakfast and I eat about 2 meals and few sides and a dozen or so cups of coffee. We meet John and Stephanie and visit and we spend a night on Beale Street. We drink some beer and watch some street music and eat barbeque and have a great time. On my moms last night John and Stephanie introduce us to some their friends Kel and Debbie who live in a floating house at another marina. They have a guest house barge too that they let my mom and I stay at. That night a huge storm takes out the power to the marina and we play scrabble by candlelight on a house barge. I am releived to be inside during the vicious storm and not braving the elements in the wild. The next day my mom leaves in the morning and I head back to Beale Street in the afternoon. I buy a few beers and watch some street music and spend the rest of the day looking out at the great Mississippi River. That evening John and Stephanie take me back to Kel's place and we have a huge party and drink a lot of beer and dreepfry oysters and french fries and onion rings and breaded fish and colliflower and more. I eat my fill and spend a night in the house barge. The next day I spend getting everything ready to go and hanging out with John and Stephanie and they buy me breakfast and dinner give me a great bottle of fancy wine and beef jerky and flares and some first aid supplies! I spend the night on the boat they are living on the Streamsong and get ready to leave in the morning. |
A floating town! |
Day 40Memphis, TN - Tunica, MS
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Today is leaving day. John, Stephanie, and I wake up early and drink some coffee before Stephanie goes off to work. I have a lot of work to do before I leave so I eventually motivate myself to do it. By noon I have eaten a lunch and am prepared to leave. Its a cooler day and a strong wind is blowing; I do not want to leave. John invites me to stay another night but I made up my mind to leave and so I am going to leave. "Im already wearing my traveling clothes" I explain. There is rain in the forecast but sometimes you just have to paddle through rain. I set out and struggle against the headwind. Before I am ten minutes out a wave washes over the boat and soaks me. I had become accustomed to staying warm and dry but but the Mississippi River is quick to remind me how life is back out in the wild. I reach a fork in the river. I know that if I head one way it will take me directly to Kel's place where I can spend a warm dry night in the house barge. The other direction is onwards. Against all my minds protests, I plunge onward toward New Orleans. After a few hours of paddling I see some folks fishing and they tell me I'm in Mississippi. I cheer and feel good having reached a new state. I have never been to Mississippi before! Ahead there are storm clouds brewing so I find a place to camp and just finish dinner as the storm moves in. My first night in Mississippi is a stormy one but my tent holds strong and I watch the lightning and wind and rain wreak havoc on the world outside. |
Leaving Memphis |
Day 41Tunica, MS - Helena, AK
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I wake up early but Im still tired so I go back to sleep. That is my priviledge! If I want to sleep, then I sleep, thats the way it should always be. Eventually I do get up, and I'm ready to go. Its an overcast day and soon its raining. Thankfully, its a calm spring rain not downpour. I wear my poncho and paddle on through. At one point today I hear the rush of water. I know the sound: rapids are ahead where the water is flowing over an underwater dyke! I prepare for the rapid and gain speed as I approach. However, as I close in I see that this dyke is not completely submerged. I'm too close now, to try to paddle around it; I paddle as hard as I can and slide accross the exposed rock at 100 miles per hour. On the other side of the dyke is drop off. A waterfall. I plunge down about a foot and half and bury the bow under water. Luckily I was going fast enough that boat sprung right back up and I only got a little bit completely soaking wet. I'm ready to call it a day when I see a bridge around a bend. I paddle hard to reach it and learn I am in Helena! I cross over to the Arkansas bank but there is no marina in town. I pass by the town and finally find a place to make camp. Just as I am securing the boat a storm moves in and starts to pour. I raise the tent in the rain with some skill and keep it mainly dry inside. I dive in and the storms intensity increases and go to bed without dinner. |
Wearing my poncho in the Rain |
Day 42Helena, AK to Mile 620, MS
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I had camped on the western bank and was hoping to wake up to the sunrise. Unfortunately the sun does not exist this morning; instead, I am awoken by a crash of thunder. I sit in my tent and watch the rain come down for a few hours because I dont want to break my tent down in the rain. Finally, It slows to a drizzle and I take advantage and down the tent and cook a big breakfast of oatmeal. I set out and it rains all morning. I find an island with a beach to eat lunch at and while I am eating the sun comes out! With the sun it is so warm that I change into shorts and feel happy. I am exactly where I want to be. I paddle off in high spirits and wind turns to my back. I fly along and the wind carries me and I cross over to the Mississippi side. I find a sandy beach that is covered in trees. It is the perfect camp site. I eat a big meal and watch the sun set. From my tent I watch the tops of the trees sway in the howling wind. If my tent was exposed tonight it would surely be blown down, but inside the sandy forest I am sheltered and happy. |
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Day 43Mile 620 to Mile 575, MS
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Last nights wind blew in the cold weather. It is warm and cozy in my sleeping bag and it is difficult to climb out into the frigid world. It is back into several layers and wool socks today. Out paddling I feel euphoric. A little wind is still at my back and I am making good time. I dont want the day to ever end. By lunch time it is warm out and I change into shorts. I eat lunch at mile marker 600 and accross the river I can see where the Arkansas River empties into the Mississippi. The sun is shining and I paddle on. At about six in the evening I begin looking for a place to camp but there is no accessible high ground. Ahead I can see headlights and that is bad news as well. Soon I reach the source of the headlights and there is a line of houses on the river front with a road running along the shore. It is eight o'clock and the light is failing fast. I am desperate to make camp and finally I find a little forested area between the road and the river. I set up my tent in the fading light and just as I am cooking my dinner I hear the sound of an engine in the distance. I kill the stove's flame and lay flat. Headlights approach and I can see that some folks are out in their golf cart cruisin around. The lights pass over me but I go unseen. I eat my dinner and go to sleep without risking the use of any light. |
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Day 44Mile 575 to Greenville, MS
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Another cold morning, but I can't waste time. I want to leave before I get any trouble from the golf cart drivers. I quickly break camp and head out on the river. Lunch today is on a sandy beach. The sun is bright and hot and I take off my shirt and lay out on the beach. At 5 o'clock I see Greenville ahead. I look for anything that could fill my water but there is noone and nothing around. Finally, I approach some tug boats at dock. A crew member comes out and tells me I need to stay 50 feet from the dock. I apologize and tell him my story and ask for water. He tells me he is not supposed to but decides to anyway. The water he gives me is yellow but he says its drinkable. I'm in desperate need of water so I will have to drink it. As we part he warns me of the gators around. I go around a bend and find a place to camp. It is a nice camping spot. It is some high ground between the river and a swamp. Perfect gator territory so the first thing I unpack is my machette. For dinner I cook up some spanish rice and it seems to be taking forever. After the rice is "tender" I have to wait 2 minutes before I "stir and serve" so I sit back and sip my wine as I wait. As I am sitting I hear something that sounds like a cross between a growl and bark. I don't need to turn around, I know there is only one creature capable of such a noise. I grab my machette and slowly rise up and turn to see a full size gator 10 feet away! I slowly backup and the gator advances on my spanish rice! I stare in agony as he devours my food. As it eats, it knocks over my open bottle of wine and my mind goes blank with rage. I pounce and bring the machette down on what I assume is an alligator neck but the blow merely bounces off. I jump back and the gator turns and gives me look that clearly shows that the rice is just an appetizer. Not without a fight I promise him and raise the machette above my head. As I raise the blade I catch a glance at my watch; the two minutes is up, and my imaginary foe dissapears. I set into a delicous meal in the hot Mississippi evening. |
Yellow Greenville Water |
Day 45Mile 535, MS to Mile 500, AK
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I sleep in then leave the gator friendly campsite behind. I pass under a bridge then come upon a half submerged sand bar. I try to take a short cut around the outside of it but somehow I end up crossing over the flooded sand bar. The changes in elevation turn the entire island into a maze and I fumble around lost in shallow water for an hour before I finally give up and paddle for another hour against the current to escape the laberinth. After freeing myself from the maze I cross to the Arkansas side of the river and start to go around a bend. It is a huge bend and I am now on the outside of it. I have read about this bend before; it is 20 miles long and if I were to portage over the shore it would have only been 100 yards. I am sure that the path I took was even further than 20 miles as I was on the very outside. Eventually I clear the bend and find a nice sandy island to camp on. After dinner I sit outside. It is a full moon tonight and the entire world looks to be glowing a deep blue color. I admire the stars and eat a granola bar and go to bed. |
Full Moon |
Day 46Mile 500 (nowhere), AK to Mile 450, MS
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I wake up with the sunrise and I am ready to go! I try to tune in my weather radio but I get nothing but static. I am in the middle of nowhere now. My cell phone is worthless plastic here. I am in a good mood. 400 miles to go to New Orleans! I am hoping to camp in Luisianna tonight! The world is changing as I plunge into the deep south. Massive trees covered in vines and fungie cover the trees. The air is full of the sound of animals. It is really, really hot. After an entire day of seeing nothing man made I come upon a factory with a barge floating beside it. There is a man on the barge and he tells me I am at Lake Providence. Luisianna!! I pass the barge a little ways and go ashore and sink my feet into about 9 inches of Luisianna mud. It feels great. Not enough room to camp there unfortunately so I continue. There is nowhere to camp for miles and eventually I see beaches ahead on the Mississippi side so I cross over to them. Its ok - I have made it to Luisianna and I will have plenty of time to camp there another night. |
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Day 47Mile 450 to Mile 420, MS
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It is a hot morning. Forecast says low 90s all day. The sun is barely up and its already in the high 80s. Today I should reach Vicksburg, MS. I plan to stop there and resupply. I paddle out and the day gets hotter. About noon I reach Vicksburg and try to find a place to stop. First I try a bank that is covered in rocks. I wasnt even out of the boat yet when security was upon me. Appearantly those rocks are owned by a casino and kayaks are not allowed. I can see a person using a hose outside the casino and I am down to my last liter of water and implore the security to allow me just to fill my water. The water is for the grass not for me. They advise me of a public park just ahead on the water front, although they dont think that it will be accessible. I paddle off and find that just past the casino is a little beach covered in refuse and twisted rusty metal. Beyond the beach is a huge bluff at about a 60 degree incline and covered in what appears to be poisen ivey. The park must be at the top of the hill. I dont have a choice but to climb up and see. After a tremendous struggle carrying my 3 empty gallon jugs of water I reach the top and sure enough it is a park. I decide that the kayak is in a safe place so I head into town. I can see a gas station with a subway attached to it. I am going to have a sandwich for lunch! I buy my sandwich and manage to hitch a ride to a walmart from a guy I meet in line. At walmart I buy enough food to last me, a lot more granola bars, and some little debbie snacks. Then its time to hike back to the park. It is a long hike. I am carrying grocerys and empty water jugs. flys are buzzing around my head. It is incredibly hot. After an hour of walking I cant go any further so I wander into the shade of a forest and lay down to regain my energy. After a little rest I am ready to go and I return to the park. Fill my water at a drinking fountain. Eat my sandwich and head back down through the ichy plants to the boat. Back out on the river I feel completely releived. When I was ashore people gave me dirty looks, but out here people on the shore wave to me and cheer for me as I paddle away. |
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Day 48Mile 420, MS to Mile 375, MS
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Another brutally hot morning. Weather report is 95 degrees 95 percent humidity. The heat makes paddling hard. I try to wet a hankercheif and tie it around my neck and it feels good for about 30 seconds then the water has completely evaporated and I have to dip it in the river again. I stop at a beach for lunch and eat while wading waist deep in the river. I watch a turtle sun himself and then swim out near me but he doesnt bother me at all. My camping spot has a steep slanting beach leading up to some flat sandy forested area. As I lay in my tent I can hear the surf of the river washing against the shore and it sings me to sleep. |
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Day 49Mile 375 to Mile 334, MS
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I could roast a marshmellow over the sun today it is so close to my head. There is a 20 percent chance of rain today and for the first time I hope for the rain. Maybe it will cool off a bit. I am going to pass Natchez today. Maybe I can stop and get ice cream. I reach Natchez but I dont see a good place to stop so I paddle on by. Soon a heavy fog moves in and I am excited to escape the sun. Instead, the fog has the opposite effect; it magnifies the heat of the sun. After a few minutes and a very light sprinkle of rain the fog lifts and the heat is as severe as ever. I talk to a guy in a fish and wildlife patrol boat and he gives me a cheese and cracker snack! I continue onward and some new weather moves in. The clouds ahead are very dark and lightning strikes are frequent. I move close to the shoreline so that the trees will get struck by lightning instead of me. I figure I would be better off trying to dodge a falling tree than a bolt of lightning. I put on my poncho and soon the weather is upon me. It rains a fair amount and then the temperature drops and the wind blows hard and the rain increases intensity until I cant even see 10 feet around me. The treeline disappears into the rain and I am lost in a grey blur. Eventually, I am able to find the shoreline and a bit of high ground. I pull the boat onto the beach and then head into the forest for some shelter. I find a cluster of trees and sit down below them and huddle inside my poncho as I wait for the rain to slow. After about a half hour the rain slows to a stop and I head back to the boat and decide to keep paddling. I feel great. This was by far the meanest storm that had caught me out on the water and I had beaten it. Soon it begins to rain again and I am worried it will be another storm so I find a beach with a nice strong tree to camp under. |
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Day 50Mile 334, MS to Mile 288, LA
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Hot and foggy today. I paddle along lazily. About midday the fog lifts and its just me and the sun and the river. The needle of my thermometer spins round and round its so hot. I find a skinny beach with a huge rock face behind it to stop for lunch. I wade in the water and enjoy some sardines. It is day 50 today and by its end I have reached Mile 288. The Mississippi River flows straight through Luisianna from here on. New Orleans is Mile 95 so thats under 200 miles to go. I should be reaching New Orleans in about 5 days. |
Foggy Morning |
Day 51Mile 288, MS to Mile 245, LA
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Its a little cooler today - almost comfortable! The river goes due East for miles and miles. The banks are speckled with industry. Baton Rouge must be close. Thats a good thing because I am low on water again and drinking what I have left quickly. I find a nice sandy forest for camp. I sit in the shade of the trees and feel at peace. After the sunsets the forest comes alive with sound. It sounds like monkeys laughing and elephants snorting. |
Paradise |
Day 52Mile 245 to Mile 207, LA
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Baton Rouge today! I will stop and get an ice cream sundae. Maybe spend the night at a marina.
I reach the city at about noon and I am soon paddling beside a giant Levy.
I spot someone walking along the top of it and ask them if there is a Marina. There is no marina. A restaraunt? no.
Nowhere to stop. But there is a water fountain on the levy so I tie off the kayak to a handrail and fill my water supply.
Then I paddle away dissapointed. |
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Day 53Mile 207 to Mile 166, LA
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The morning fog is thick. Vissibility is about 15 feet. I hug the shoreline and listen carefully for fog horns. Occasionally the shoreline dips away quickly and then I am lost in a grey foggy world. I paddle on and eventually the fog lifts and its a sunny day. I see a bunch of wild hogs standing around on the shoreline and as I paddle by they all stop and look at me. That explains some of the noise I heard at camp last night. The amount of industry has increased and the river is heavily trafficked. There is no time to be lazy today, I am constantly maneuvering to avoid tug boats and moored barges. I loose track of time and soon its 6:30 and there is nowhere in sight to make camp. I am paddling down the middle of the river when the captain of a docked tug waves at me. "You want something to eat?" he calls. Within a blink of an eye I am alongside and the crew helps to secure my boat. Captain Acie has seen a few people kayaking down the river and always tries to help them out. He is cooking a huge pot of food and it smells delicous! It is a soup of venison, sausage, peppers and served over rice. Its great and I finally, get my first taste of authentic Luisianna cooking. For desert there is bananna pudding, I even get a shower and a load of laundry done. They send me off with a huge bag of soup, a frozen gallon of gatorade, and two lanterns. I am a happy man! |
Crew of the Helen G: Captain Acie, Henry, and O'neil |
Day 54Mile 166 to Mile 110, LA
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Its an early start today - I paddle along and watch the sun rise. The sun is rising over New Orleans and I am paddling eastward towards it. This is my last full day on the water. Tomorrow night I will sleep inside. Safe from the heat and bugs and hogs and aligators and weather and flooding. After the sun rises I find a nice place to stop and have a breakfast. I make coffee and eat a few meals worth of oatmeal. There is no sense rationing food now. Several miles on and the river becomes a highway. There are boats everywhere. Tug boats are going back and forth, crew boats fly everywhere and kick up huge wakes, ocean liners are heading up and down river and then there is me. The river is constantly tomultuous. The wind is blowing. The banks are lined with docks and barges and huge ships are moored. The travelling is stressful and there are no good places to rest. Finally, having cleared Mile 115 making it an easy ride into New Orleans tomorrow, I find a little stretch of woods between the levy and the river. I can see people bicycling on the levy through the woods but I dont think they will notice me. I cook up some of last nights soup and drink wine and smoke a mini cigar I brought along. I am 15 miles out from New Orleans and the sun is setting. I am tired and there is nothing to do now but go to sleep. |
The Sun is Setting on the Journey |
Day 55Mile 110 to Seabrook Marina (Intercoastal Waterway), LA
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Day 55. Today it ends. A big breakfast and its back out into the rush of traffic. I paddle under a bridge and I can see the city skyline in the distance. Along with all the traffic, today there are dredges out too, forcing me out into the middle of the river. The river cant make up its mind whether it wants to go to New Orleans or not. It goes one direction for about 500 feet and then does a complete U-turn and goes the complete opposite direction for a little while before it turns again. Soon I paddle right next to down town New Orleans. I hear there is a marina on the intercoastal waterway that I can access by lockage but I dont know where it is. I ask the crew on a paddle boat and they tell me its up ahead around a bend. I round the bend, and just short of mile marker 90 I see a channel open up and there is a tug and barge waiting to lock through. I leave the Mississippi river behind and find a shrimp boat that is also waiting for the lock. They tell me the wait is about an hour and a half and invite me onboard. They have been out shrimpin for a few days and are anxious to get back home. I am feeling a little anxious myself. Finally, we get the go ahead on the lock so we pull the kayak onboard their boat and they give me and the kayak a ride down the channel to where their path diverges from mine. I get back into my boat and paddle a few miles down the intercoastal and soon I can see docks ahead. I paddle up to a floating dock, and step ashore to New Orleans. |
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The standard charge to leave a boat at the marina is $1.50 a foot, but I start talking really fast and soon a manager allows me to keep the boat there a few days for free. They pull out the kayak gear and all on the lift and put it in dry storage. A friend of John's in Memphis, Al is meeting me here and he gives me a tour of New Orleans. We see damage from the levy failure during Hurricane Katrina and Al and his wife Joya take me out to dinner. After dinner Al and I take a walk around the French Quarter and Bourbon street and smoke a cigar and drink some bourbon. I spend the night at their place, the Mississippi a distant memory. Tomorrow my mom is coming to town and we are getting a hotel and going to spend a few days enjoying New Orleans. Then I am off to Florida to find a job. |
Al and Joya took care of me in New Orleans |